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Best
viewed at 1024 x 768 or greater screen resolution,
16 bit color or better. All content &
photographs copyrighted, all rights reserved.
Key features -
"Exposure Priority"... O.K. - So if you're not a professional photographer or a serious "camera bug", you're probably saying "I think I've heard of it, but what is it?" Or, "Why should I even care when all I really want is a nice, sharp picture?" Yes, it is truly wonderful to have a camera you can put on "automatic" and get a good picture by just pressing the shutter button. Auto focus, auto exposure, just 'point & shoot'. But there are times when "automatic" just won't get what you see in your "mind's eye" when you take a picture. Blurred shots from movement. Backgrounds out of focus. Something "missing" to the feel of the picture. All of the better digital cameras have some 'manual setting' options to adjust for conditions that might be a little too bright or too dark. Some have focal point options. But that's about it until you step up to the $2,000 to $30,000+ range of digital cameras. A couple of currently produced lower priced cameras have preset "sports" or "portrait" settings that hit the edge of exposure priority. And that's nice... if the "good" high resolution digital cameras even had these options, I might not be all that excited about the Agfa 1680. What makes the 1680 so special is the wide range of settings you can make in these areas. Exposure priority gives you the ability to catch your jumping puppy without blurring, or have the mountains in the background of your picture look as sharp as the object that's only 10 feet away from you. It can get you a sharp, crisp picture of your primary subject and have the background be "in the background". It can catch the splash in the swimming pool in "mid-air". It can give just a "slight blur" to a runner against a sharp, crisp background to give a sense of speed. It can capture the look and feel of what you see in dim or available light without the harshness often resulting from flash photography. Setting exposure priority on the 1680 means that the camera tells it's internal processor to "look at me first". With a priority setting made, the camera then adjusts it's shutter speed (if aperture priority was set) or aperture (if shutter priority was set) to let enough light in to expose the picture properly. You can't set both as "priority" at the same time. It would eliminate the automatic exposure. That's because automatic exposure is a function of aperture (how big of an opening the light passes through) and shutter speed (how fast the shutter opens an shuts to let the light through the aperture). If you manually controlled both, you would no longer have automatic exposure. To ensure proper exposure, the 1680 will distinctly show a red warning symbol with a "+" or "-" sign in the LCD screen if your priority setting is likely to cause an over or underexposure. If you see the warning symbol, you can redo your priority settings accordingly. Thus, even with "exposure priority", there is a built in safeguard for achieving good quality photos. There are three primary reasons for using exposure priority:
Again, remember the basic rule - With a priority setting made, the camera adjusts it's shutter speed (if aperture priority was set) or aperture (if shutter priority was set) to let enough light in to expose the picture properly. Use each to your intent - if you get out of bounds enough to possibly cause an over or underexposure problem, the camera will warn you. Comments in my sample pictures will tell you more about the practical use of exposure priority. Remember, the camera also has a fully "automatic" setting, too. (If you don't want to use manual overrides.)
"Instant Delete Option"... Sometimes, even with the best of plans and intentions when you snap your picture, it comes up as pure junk. You can see it on the LCD screen as soon as it begins to process - Blurred movements, closed eyes, missed "target", and so forth. You know it as soon as you see it. Press the "easy pilot" wheel/button while the picture is previewed on the LCD screen during the processing time, and processing halts. An option pops up on the LCD screen, asking you if you want to stop processing and delete the current picture. Select "yes", and the picture is deleted on the spot, returning you instantly to the picture taking mode. A big time saver, and a big "megabyte" saver, too. Select "no", and the picture continues processing. I sure do like this addition to the camera's operating system.
"The Big Threaded Lens"... The 46 mm threaded lens allows easy attachment of add-on lenses and filters. (The 46 mm size is a standard camera size.) You might need a step-up ring to 49 mm, 52 mm, or even 55 mm to fit certain items, but these are also readily available. Threaded lenses (wide angle or telephoto) and step-up rings can be bought at most larger camera stores. Huge variety of possibilities for the adventurous.
"Time Delay Shutter Release"... Useable on any exposure or focus setting, the time delay is settable at either 5 or 10 seconds. When the shutter button is pressed, a "countdown" appears on the LCD screen. You can see 10, 9, 8, 7 ... and so on (or a 5, 4, 3 ... etc. with the 5 second delay) until the shutter trips. And when it does trip, you'll hear the familiar "beep" signal from the camera confirming that the picture was taken.
I often use the camera on a monopod, raised high over my head for an elevated shot. I can do this with the timer, and then I can see when the shutter is set to trip, so I can be sure my subject is "framed" properly in the LCD screen. And the "beep" tells me I can let the camera down to review my work.
The step up to 1280x960 resolution is significant for two key reasons -
"Speed" - (Much faster than it's predecessor, the ePhoto 1280) Average "boot up" time -- around 5 seconds. Shutter response time -- A consistent 3/10 second. Not bad... Average processing time -- 4 to 5 seconds.
Can't see the LCD screen in the bright daylight? Take a look at an LCD viewer that works great on the the Agfa 1680 too!
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